Kolkata's 'Fifa Gully' captures India's World Cup passion despite nation never qualifying

A modest lane in Kolkata has become one of the most vivid expressions of World Cup fervour anywhere on the planet, as residents of Fakir Chakraborty Lane in the city’s Beniatola area have turned their neighbourhood into the dazzling ‘Fifa Gully’ — entirely without sponsorship or outside funding.

Visitors entering the barely 100-metre stretch are greeted by giant cut-outs of Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi, with Neymar completing an iconic trio inside. Vibrant murals of Kylian Mbappé and Vinicius Jr line the walls, while bunting of international team flags stretches overhead. The display has been built by local residents in their spare time, painting portraits and erecting structures whenever they could find a free moment.

“We have never taken any type of sponsorship,” said Renesh Roy, a member of the Fifa Gully collective. “It’s for the love of football.”

The tradition began during the 2014 World Cup with simple newspaper clippings pasted on walls. Over the following decade it evolved into the elaborate, professional-looking installation that now draws a steady stream of visitors and has turned the otherwise unremarkable lane into a popular selfie destination.

Kolkata is widely regarded as the heartland of Indian football, home to three historic clubs — Mohun Bagan, East Bengal, and Mohammedan Sporting — and the city’s passion for the game stands in sharp contrast to India’s footballing fortunes at international level. The men’s national team ranks 138th in the world and has never qualified for a World Cup, yet local fans have channelled their allegiance into fierce support for Brazil and Argentina. Replicas of Messi, Ronaldo, and Neymar jerseys are as common on the streets here as in any South American city.

“Kolkata is the mecca of football,” said Sourav Ghosal, a 23-year-old MBA student who grew up in the neighbourhood. “This is the heritage. That’s what Kolkata is all about.”

For collective member Debajyoti Dutta, the scale of attention the lane has attracted carries a deeper meaning. “It’s a small lane in a small area in Kolkata,” he said. “It’s a matter of pride for us.”

All five players celebrated in the murals — Messi, Ronaldo, Neymar, Mbappé, and Vinicius Jr — remain active in the tournament as it moves into the knockout rounds. Argentina face Cape Verde on Friday looking to secure a place in the last 16, Portugal are set to meet Spain for a quarter-final berth, and Brazil will play Norway.